Scotland: The First Encounter with Haggis and Whisky

On a family trip to Scotland many years ago, we found ourselves venturing into the crisp embrace of the Scottish Highlands. Despite the late-August timing, the weather was already chilly, rendering our summer attire woefully inadequate.

 

Our journey commenced in Edinburgh, and after some sightseeing, we boarded a train to the vicinity of Inverness, where a recently established hotel awaited our arrival. The manager, a gracious woman, went above and beyond, sharing a plethora of information about the hotel's offerings from our arrival to settling into our rooms. Eager to shake off the travel stiffness after the train journey to Inverness, we took a refreshing dip in the hotel's pool.

 

Arriving at dinner time, we were led to the hotel's restaurant where a three-course meal awaited us. The manager continued her attentive service, highlighting the freshness of the salad vegetables harvested that very morning from a nearby farm.

 

As the main course was served, our curiosity piqued at the sight of a large, dark sausage or a small ham-like round encased in a semi-translucent membrane. The waiter leaned in, expressing concern as he revealed, "This is Haggis."

 

Haggis, a Scottish culinary icon, had intrigued me as I had browsed through guidebooks before arriving in Inverness. Now, faced with the actual dish, I couldn't help but wonder about its taste and the mystery behind that usual dark mass. The manager, once again, came to our aid.

 

"As Haggis tends to crumble when the skin is pierced, please drizzle this whisky over it and enjoy it with a fork. This whisky is called a dram," she kindly explained, handing me a small container resembling a milk jug. The whisky on the table exuded a slightly dark hue, and its sweet aroma filled the air even before pouring.

 

Mixing the whisky generously with the Haggis, I took a forkful, and to my surprise, the crumbly texture intertwined seamlessly with the sweetness of the whisky. Haggis, seemingly unappealing at first glance, transformed into an unexpectedly delicious dish when paired with whisky. I savored every bite, reluctant for the experience to end. That night, the intoxication brought on by whisky or perhaps the magic of Haggis ensured a sound and serene sleep.

 

Later, I discovered that Haggis is a dish made by simmering the offal of animals like sheep, including the heart, liver, oatmeal, beef suet, spices, and salt encased in a sheep's stomach. Even writing about it now, the complexity of the dish is evident.

 

Until then, I had an unfounded notion that whisky was bitter, despite not having tasted it due to being underage. However, through Haggis, I learned that whisky possesses a certain sweetness. Despite subsequent encounters with various whiskies, none matched the melting sweetness experienced that day. Was it the unique pairing with Haggis or the magic of finding a whisky that complemented it perfectly? The answer remains elusive.

 

Haggis, traditionally a dish where farmers utilized every part of slaughtered animals, dates back to at least 1493, as discovered in a cookbook from Lancashire, in England's Lake District. It became a national dish in Scotland, thanks in part to the renowned poet Robert Burns, who eulogized Haggis in one of his poems.

 

After Burns' death, friends began celebrating his life with a Haggis-centric dinner, reciting his poetry. This evolved into the "Burns Night" celebration, featuring bagpipe performances and the presentation of Haggis to the dining guests. The night includes recitations of Burns' "Address to a Haggis" before raising a toast with whisky.

 

In modern times, Burns Night has expanded beyond dinners, incorporating multi-day events with music and other festivities. Organized by volunteers, these events aim to make music accessible to young people. The Haggis remains a central element, symbolizing the passion of Scottish chefs who ingeniously paired it with Scotch whisky.

 

The vast Scotch whisky-producing regions, including Highland, Speyside, Lowland, Campbeltown, Island, and Islay, offer an array of flavors and aromas. Each distillery in these regions produces whiskies with distinct characteristics. Identifying the specific whisky that accompanied that memorable Haggis meal decades ago remains a daunting challenge.

 

Whether Haggis is available in Japanese restaurants is uncertain, but if it were, the opportunity to savor Haggis paired with that unique whisky would be a culinary adventure worth undertaking. If I were to revisit Scotland in the remaining chapters of my life, indulging in the aromatic whisky-infused Haggis would undoubtedly be on my agenda, a timeless memory etched into my taste buds.

 

 

 

 

  

(Excerpt from my book in Japanese below )