Italy : The First Glass of Montepulciano

 It must have been about twenty-five years ago. Our colleagues and I had just graduated from university that year and landed jobs at a small travel agency. Specializing in Europe, Africa, and the Middle East, the company thoroughly immersed us in the geography, history, tourist attractions, and various local cuisines of Europe through our work.

 

Among our colleagues were those who, during their student days, embarked on budget travels abroad, boldly exploring various countries. We exchanged experiences, learning from each other, and absorbed knowledge like sponges from our seniors, as we navigated through our daily routines.

 

At that time, my role involved researching travel ideas for sales outside by obtaining information from overseas branches. Information available domestically required my personal research, compilation, and storage. Despite the bursting of the economic bubble about five to six years earlier, Japan still had a thriving population eager for information on luxury cuisine, fine wines, and high-end resorts. In the pre-internet era, such luxurious items were only accessible through guidebook corners, magazine features, or specialized publications.

 

Our company primarily dealt with Italy in those days, and after about three months into our tasks, our knowledge of tourist destinations, meals, and drinks began to expand. Beyond the ordinary Italian tours spanning eight days, dishes like squid ink spaghetti, calamari, Fiorentina steak, Pizza Margherita, and Cotoletta alla Milanese intrigued us. The countless brands of Italian wines also captured our attention, particularly in the wine-rich regions of Italy, such as Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Frascati.

 

Among these, our veteran colleagues emphasized the importance of remembering two: Brunello di Montalcino and Montepulciano. Both were representative wines from the Tuscan region, home to Florence. Some even traveled to Italy in pursuit of these wines, visiting wineries for wine field and cellar tours, culminating in tasting sessions—a popular course of action.

 

Brunello di Montalcino, produced in the vicinity of the town Montalcino near Siena in Tuscany, is a red wine made from the Sangiovese grape native to the Tuscan region. Winemaking in the Montalcino area is believed to have started around the 14th century. However, it was in the 19th century that a farmer named Santi developed a method for aging wine in barrels for an extended period within Montalcino. This technique evolved over the generations, and by the end of World War II, Montalcino wines gained national attention, eventually achieving the highest designation of D.O.C.G. in the Italian wine classification. Known for its mature, robust flavor, Brunello di Montalcino has become one of the globally celebrated wines.

 

Montepulciano wine is also made from the Sangiovese grape, grown in the town of Montepulciano, perched atop a hill near Siena in Tuscany. This village, located between the Orcia and Chiana rivers, boasts a soil rich in limestone, ideal for grape cultivation. The wine that brought fame to this town is Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Its red wine production history dates back centuries, possibly to the 8th century. The Fattoria della Famiglia Fanetti, a family that has been making wine in Montepulciano for generations, named it Vino Nobile di Montepulciano in the 1920s. To carry this designation, at least seventy percent of the Sangiovese used must come from the region. It holds the second-highest rank, D.O.C., in the Italian wine classification. Today, this wine is internationally renowned.

 

I longed to taste these Tuscan wines. As the summer arrived and our first bonus was disbursed, our group made a reservation at an Italian bar and restaurant a little away from the office. We ordered one Italian dish per person, sharing the various specialties we had learned about over the past few months.

 

The Fiorentina steak, said to be as large as a clog, arrived as an overflowing, thick cut on a massive plate. The ink-black pasta had a unique, salty taste reminiscent of seawater, and the oven-baked Pizza Margherita was fragrant with both the aroma and flavor of tomatoes, truly exquisite. We concluded our meal with Panna Cotta.

 

While we had ordered several bottles of wine, I found myself wanting more. I perused the wine list and stumbled upon Montepulciano. Priced at ¥5,000 per glass, I couldn't resist asking the waitress how much a full bottle would cost. It was around ¥20,000, if I recall correctly. Although it exceeded my budget, ¥5,000 seemed manageable. Without hesitation, I ordered a glass of Montepulciano.

 

Montepulciano lived up to its pre-reputation. The wine was slightly sweet, with delicate aromas reminiscent of raspberries and a light astringency. Describing the taste of wine in full would be impossible unless one is a sommelier. Nevertheless, moved by the flavor, I shared a glass with everyone present. The word "delicious" echoed around the table.

 

It's been quite a while since that day, and I don't remember which winery's Montepulciano we enjoyed. Yet, sometimes, when browsing through imported wine shops, I search the shelves for Montepulciano. The prices vary widely, but I wonder if I'll ever come across that elusive Montepulciano from that summer day, and how I'll feel when I taste it again.

Translated from my book below