Japan : History of Japanese Wine
In my early years, I resided in the Tohoku region of Japan. Near the housing complex nestled in the mountains, there was a forest where various fruits grew.
Among them, the mountain grapes held a
special fascination for my young heart. Simply put, they looked delicious.
Despite being warned by adults never to eat them, they seemed even more
tempting.
During that time, I heard a folktale called
"Saru-zake" (Monkey's Wine). It narrated a story of a monkey living
in the mountains who hid the mountain grapes he had gathered in a tree hollow.
Over time, it miraculously turned into wine. A woodcutter who discovered it
tasted the wine, found it incredibly delicious, drank too much, and ended up
drunk—such was the essence of the story, if I recall correctly.
This wine made from mountain grapes (Vitis
coignetiae) is considered one of Japan's oldest alcoholic beverages
archaeologically. Its origins can be traced back to the Jomon period,
approximately 10,000 to 5,000 years ago.
Photo from Wikipedia
Excavations at sites like the Sanai
Maruyama Ruins in Aomori, the Idojiri Ruins in Nagano, and the Jomon Kingdom in
Yamanashi have unearthed pottery vessels believed to be used in making alcohol
from mountain grapes. Various theories exist, including the possibility that
these vessels were used for drums.
Nevertheless, findings such as grape seeds
inside pottery, vessels buried in the ground, and cup-like containers
discovered inside dwellings lead archaeologists to believe that some form of
beverage was likely produced during that time.
The wine made from mountain grapes is
mentioned in the Kojiki (Records of Ancient Matters) and Nihon Shoki
(Chronicles of Japan), suggesting that our ancestors may have been making
drinks from mountain grapes since the Jomon period.
Even after the Jomon period, wine from
mountain grapes continued to be produced. It served as a tonic, made in
households, and persisted until the Meiji era when the prohibition of homemade
alcohol production was enforced.
Mountain grapes, also known as "Ebikazura,"
can be found throughout Japan, particularly in the cool climates of the Tohoku
region. The taste is characterized by bitterness and acidity, with rich
polyphenols like anthocyanins and catechins. Understanding the long tradition
of homemade mountain grape wine helps to appreciate its historical medicinal
value.
Currently, this mountain grape wine is
still produced and can be purchased at souvenir shops near the production areas
or through online shopping.
Some time ago, I decided to purchase a
bottle from an online shop. The mountain grape wine, housed in a slender glass
bottle, had a deep crimson color reminiscent of red wine, sparking high
expectations for its taste.
Upon pouring it into a glass, the color was
comparable to red wine, and yet...
This wine had a distinct aroma. A wild
scent, so to speak. It had a relatively heavy and mysterious fragrance. If I
were to compare it, while red wine had a domesticated scent, mountain grapes
had an untamed one. It's like imagining the difference between pork and wild
boar, beef and venison, chicken and pigeon.
The uniqueness of this aroma may be
divisive. It made me realize how red grape wines, which we are accustomed to,
have been refined to suit people's tastes.
But the taste was delightful. It was not
barrel-aged, akin to a relatively young red wine, with a light sweetness and
the distinct flavor of grapes. Aside from the different aroma, it seemed fair
to call it one of the approachable wines.
The cultivation of grapes we commonly see
in Japan began during the Nara period. The well-known "Koshu" grape
is the one. Originating from Yamanashi Prefecture, there are various theories
about its discovery. Some claim it was brought by migratory birds from China,
while others attribute it to a monk named Gyoki who happened to visit Koshu, or
to Kaguyu Ame no Miya Kageyu, a resident of Koshu.
Koshu is a variety of Vitis Vinifera, a
Western grape species originating from West Asia. It is the same variety used
in wine production in Europe. Though the grape variety arrived in Yamanashi,
it's unclear whether wine was made from it. It is strongly believed that it was
primarily consumed fresh.
There are specific conditions for grape
cultivation. It likely depended on the climate, but unfortunately, grapes did
not spread across Japan during that time.
So when did Western wine enter Japan? It
was during the late Muromachi period and Azuchi-Momoyama period. In an era when
official trade with overseas countries was briefly conducted, it's easy to
imagine that Europeans arriving on trade ships brought wine. Luis Frois of the
Jesuit order wrote extensively about Japan, and Alessandro Valignano, a Jesuit
priest, visited Japan. During his visit, he proposed the dispatch of the Tensho
Embassy, a group of Japanese youths sent to Europe.
Tensho Embassy, photo from Wikipedia
The wine that came in at that time was
called "Chinta-sake." It is said that the name originated from the
Portuguese term "Quinta" (winery) being distorted into
"Chinta." There are two theories about this Chinta-sake: one suggests
it was red wine, while the other proposes it was a fortified wine with
increased alcohol content, similar to Port wine or Sherry.
Wine imported from distant lands was a
precious commodity, enjoyed by the ruling powers and nobility. Oda Nobunaga,
Toyotomi Hideyoshi, Tokugawa Ieyasu, among others, are said to have tasted
wine. If it was a sweet Port or Sherry, it would undoubtedly have captivated
the aristocracy and rulers with its sweet flavors.
Moreover, during the period when the
propagation of Christianity was flourishing, there might have been wine
production. This is because wine was used during Mass as the blood of Christ.
However, it is unlikely that this wine was the one imported from afar. Perhaps
during the Communion, the wine used was a substitute made from mountain grape
alcohol. Research from Kumamoto University suggests that during this period,
"wine was a fermented brewing beverage made from mountain grapes,"
and "there was an awareness that wine was a prohibited drink for
Christians."
After that, the Sakoku Edict was issued.
During that period, even if Western alcohol entered Japan, it was not
circulated among the general public. It is presumed that Portuguese and Dutch
merchants in Dejima may have been consuming it.
The reintroduction of Western wine to Japan
occurred during the late Edo period to the Meiji era. Commodore Perry, who
arrived in Japan at the end of the Edo period, presented various gifts to the
shogunate, including alcoholic beverages such as Madeira wine, whiskey, and
Champagne.
Additionally, as Japan entered the Meiji
era, the Rokumeikan was constructed to entertain diplomats and others arriving
from Europe and the United States, and wine was introduced for that purpose.
As Japan embraced Westernization and
implemented policies such as "Enrich the Country, Strengthen the
Military" and the "Promotion of Industry," the cultivation of
wine emerged as a facet of the industrial promotion strategy. The nation
fervently encouraged wine production on a large scale.
Leading the charge during this period was
Yamanashi Prefecture, where the first Japanese wine production company, the
"Dai-Nippon Yamanashi Budo Shu Kaisha" (Great Japan Yamanashi Grape
Juice Company), was established.
In the early years of the Meiji era, the
company sent two Japanese representatives, Takano Shosei and Tsuchiya Sukejiro,
on an unprecedented mission to France. Their task was to learn the art of
winemaking in just one year. Despite the language and cultural barriers, the
duo persevered, gaining insights not only into winemaking but also into the
production methods of beer and champagne.
Thanks to their unwavering efforts, by the
end of the Meiji era, a considerable quantity of wine was being consumed in
Japan. Amid various companies attempting to import and sell wine, a strategy of
sweetening robust wines to suit Japanese palates gained popularity. The wine
known as "Akatama Port Wine" played a crucial role in sparking
Japanese interest in this foreign beverage.
Subsequently, the two World Wars dealt
devastating blows to the wine industry. The resurgence of wine production is
attributed to the Tokyo Olympics and the World Exposition held in Japan.
With post-war times ushering in an era of
Westernized lifestyles for the general populace, curiosity about wine grew.
Japan's economic prosperity, particularly during the bubble economy, witnessed
an unprecedented surge in enthusiasm for wine, with Beaujolais Nouveau becoming
a sensation alongside traditional wines.
In recent times, trade agreements such as
the Trans-Pacific Partnership (TPP) and various Economic Partnership Agreements
(EPAs) have led to reduced tariffs, allowing a diverse range of wines from
Europe, North America, South America, Australia, and South Africa to be
imported. Domestic wine production has flourished, with wines becoming readily
available even in convenience stores.
Whether it be whiskey or wine, the
challenge of learning the craft from foreign lands, where language barriers
persist, has always been a daunting task. Yet, the pioneers of the Meiji era,
who laid the foundation for Japanese wine, deserve our utmost respect.
Gratitude is also extended to those who
continued to craft homemade mountain grape wine, serving as a guardian of the
traditional taste native to Japan. The flavors passed down from the homes of
ordinary citizens have played a significant role in shaping the palate we enjoy
today.
Moreover, the growth of wine production
within Japan, starting from Yamanashi Prefecture, has been impressive. In
recent years, Japanese wines have achieved commendable results in international
wine competitions. As of the fiscal year 2018, the number of wineries in Japan
has reached 331. While Yamanashi Prefecture dominates in terms of quantity,
other regions such as Nagano, Hokkaido, Yamagata, and Iwate are following suit.
Wine, a beverage rooted in Japan's ancient
history, has garnered attention over the past 150 years since its introduction
from the West. The demand for wine is expected to persist in the future. We
encourage producers to continue their efforts.
Just as our ancestors were captivated by
grapes in ancient times, today, we find ourselves drawn to this fruit. Whether
enjoyed fresh, as dried grapes, or transformed into wine, it enriches our
dining tables and adds color to special moments with friends and family. This
delightful beverage, a tradition passed down across the globe, remains a
timeless connection between East and West.
As we eagerly anticipate a day free from
pandemics and wars, where we can unabashedly savor wines from Japanese and
international wineries, the yearning for a harmonious world intensifies.
Reference;
"Jomon People Drank Ancient Wine
(Yamabudo Sake)?" | Jomon Family | Tenryu Rakushi (ameblo.jp)
https://ameblo.jp/starless43/entry-12704286388.html
"When Did Japanese Sake Start Being
Consumed? Why is it Sold in 1.8-Liter Bottles? Interesting Stories of Japanese
Sake History" – SUSHI TIMES
https://sushitimes.co/2018/08/17/20180817_1/
"The Oldest 'Alcohol Culture' in Japan
Started from the Aomori-Michinoku Maruyama Site" (ourlocal-labo.com)
https://ourlocal-labo.com/alcohol01/
About Yamabudo (Japanese Mountain Grapes) |
Japan Mountain Grape Wine Enthusiasts Association Website (jwwfa.com)
http://jwwfa.com
"When Did Sake Brewing Begin? The
Taste of Ancient Japanese Sake Was Like This" - Pantaporta
(phantaporta.com)
https://www.phantaporta.com/2019/02/blog-post46.html
"Wine Country Yamanashi | History of
Yamanashi Wine" (wine.or.jp)
https://wine.or.jp/wine/enkakushi.html
"Wine and the Japanese People" |
Trace [トレース] (ntt-card.com)
https://www.ntt-card.com/trace/backnumber/vol08/index.shtml
"Japanese Wine - People Who Paved the
Way from Introduction to Brewing, (2) The Three Heroes of Modern History and
Grape Wine" | Historical Figures | Kirin Historical Museum
(kirinholdings.com)
https://museum.kirinholdings.com/person/wine/02.html
release180402.pdf
"Gift from Admiral Perry, Japan-US
Encounters" | Japan-US Exchange (japanusencounters.net)
http://www.japanusencounters.net/sub_gift.html
Overview of Domestic Wine Production /
Overview of Fruit Wine Manufacturing Industry (National Tax Agency Survey
Results)
Industry Overview (PDF File / 1,265KB)
30wine01.pdf
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