Cyprus : The Wine Cleopatra Cherished: A Taste of Cyprus

A few years ago, in a tucked-away corner of Tokyo, we found ourselves burning the midnight oil, utterly engrossed in researching Cyprus. At the time, we were working for a small travel agency, and one of our clients had approached us with a request to create a bespoke tour for this enigmatic island. Determined to craft a memorable itinerary, we threw ourselves into the task, pooling resources with our local Cypriot partners and scouring every bit of information we could find in Japan.

Cyprus, a sun-kissed island adrift in the Mediterranean, sits tantalisingly close to Turkey. With connecting flights conveniently offered from Japan, it’s an accessible yet slightly offbeat destination. The island’s history is a mosaic of cultures and empires: from the ancient Greeks who settled there, to the Hittites, Assyrians, Egyptians, Romans, Crusader knights, Venetians, Ottomans, and, finally, the British. It’s no exaggeration to say that Cyprus is a crossroads of civilisations, much like many of its Mediterranean neighbours.

The island boasts a wealth of attractions. Take Paphos, for instance—a sprawling open-air archaeological park that feels as though it has leapt straight from the pages of an ancient history book. This entire town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a treasure trove of Roman ruins and early Christian basilicas. Then there’s the Kykkos Monastery, tucked away in the mountains and famed for its exquisite religious frescoes. Along the coast, you’ll find the legendary Petra tou Romiou, where, according to Greek mythology, the goddess Aphrodite emerged from the sea foam. And of course, there’s Nissi Beach, the epitome of a Mediterranean resort with its crystal-clear waters and soft white sand—a postcard-perfect slice of Cyprus.

Looking back, those late-night sessions feel like a lifetime ago, but they were worth every ounce of effort. Cyprus, with its layers of history and sun-drenched charm, truly deserved the careful planning we poured into that tour. It wasn’t just about crafting an itinerary—it was about capturing the spirit of the island itself.

Cyprus, a sunlit jewel of the Mediterranean, holds a history as rich as its wines and as layered as its ancient ruins. Once, it was the stronghold of the Knights Templar, those enigmatic protectors of Christian pilgrims journeying to Jerusalem. In 1974, history took a turbulent turn when Turkey, citing the protection of the island’s Turkish Cypriot population, occupied the northern part of Cyprus. The result was a division that endures to this day, with the island split between the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus and the Republic of Cyprus in the south.

As we delved deeper into the island’s storied past, its climate, and its many attractions, one name shimmered through the haze of history: Cleopatra. Yes, the Cleopatra—one of the world’s most famous beauties and a woman of formidable political acumen. For a time, Cyprus was under the sway of the Ptolemaic dynasty, and Cleopatra herself ruled over the island, leaving an indelible mark on its lore.

This revelation led us to another gem in Cyprus’s crown: Commandaria wine. Legend has it that this luscious dessert wine, crafted from sun-dried grapes, was a favourite of Cleopatra’s. It is said to rank alongside sherry and port as one of Europe’s finest fortified wines. According to the Cyprus Tourism Organisation, Commandaria has an ancestry dating back to 800 BC. In ancient Greece, it was drunk during festivals dedicated to the goddess Aphrodite, while Hesiod, the renowned Greek poet, extolled it as a “miraculous drink.”

The wine’s fame didn’t stop there. Fast forward to the twelfth century, during the era of the Crusades, and we find England’s Richard the Lionheart savouring Commandaria at his wedding in Cyprus. Declaring it “the wine of kings and the king of wines,” he cemented its place in history. Richard, famed for his valour in the Third Crusade, was one of the last Christian monarchs standing in the fight to reclaim Jerusalem from Muslim forces.

The story of Richard’s connection to Cyprus adds another chapter to the island’s epic tale. In response to a plea from Pope Gregory VIII, England, France, and the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa joined forces for the Crusades. But as the campaign dragged on, Richard found himself weathering a fierce storm, forcing him to seek refuge in Cyprus. It was here, amidst the island’s rugged beauty, that he briefly held sway before entrusting Cyprus to the Crusaders.

This little island, with its sun-dappled shores and vineyards, is far more than just a Mediterranean escape. It’s a living tapestry, where the threads of history, mythology, and culture intertwine—a place where every sip of wine and every story told carries the weight of centuries.

Towards the end of the twelfth century, Richard the Lionheart sold the island of Cyprus to the Knights Templar. Ever the shrewd operators, the Templars promptly passed it on to Guy de Lusignan, a French knight and distant relative of Richard’s. However, they retained a vast estate near Limassol, ensuring a lasting foothold on the island.

This estate became known as the “Grande Commanderie.” The term “Commanderie” referred to a military headquarters, while the “Grande” was added to distinguish it from two smaller outposts under the Templars’ control. These were situated near Paphos in the west and Kyrenia in the north. Over time, the lands governed by the Templars collectively became known as “Commandaria.”

During their tenure, the Templars utilised their estates to produce wine on a grand scale. These wines were exported to European courts or distributed to pilgrims journeying to the Holy Land. In keeping with the tradition of naming wines after their place of origin, the wines of Commandaria became synonymous with this historic region. Remarkably, Commandaria wine holds the distinction of being the world’s oldest wine still in production under its original name.

This is no ordinary tipple. With an alcohol content of over 20%, Commandaria is a robust dessert wine, rich in character and steeped in history. Today, four main producers carry on the legacy of this legendary wine, alongside numerous local winemakers from fourteen villages nestled at the foot of the Troodos Mountains.

The story of Commandaria wine is one of enduring craftsmanship and timeless appeal—a sip of it is not merely a taste of Cyprus but a journey back to an age of knights, crusades, and the birth of legends.

Could we weave a taste of Commandaria wine into the tour? That was the question we posed to our Cypriot partners. They agreed, and before long, a wine-tasting session was seamlessly slotted into the itinerary.

The tour took shape, bookings came in, and the much-anticipated departure day arrived. As we mentally waved off our clients at the small office in Tokyo, we couldn’t help but cross our fingers, hoping they’d have a marvellous time and that any potential hiccups would be minor ones. All we could do was await reports from Cyprus and trust everything would run smoothly.

When the tour concluded and feedback trickled in, we were delighted to hear glowing reviews. The guests had revelled in the charm of Cyprus—its groves of citrus trees, the weathered ruins from ancient Greece, and the island’s unpretentious beauty. The seafood was a hit, and the wine-tasting session seemed to be the proverbial cherry on top.

Shortly after, one of our colleagues returned from a business trip to Cyprus bearing gifts. Among them was a bottle of Commandaria wine. “It’s nothing fancy,” she said with a shrug as she handed it over. I took it home, could not conceal my excitement to taste this precious gift at home.

The bottle, a slender black glass affair, held a liquid that glinted like caramel as it poured into the glass. I knew it was sweet, of course, but the first sip was a surprise—a light, unassuming sweetness that wasn’t cloying. The aroma of grapes was distinct, almost nostalgic, and the flavour was delightfully straightforward. It was precisely what you’d expect from a wine made of well-ripened, sun-dried grapes: a touch of natural, earthy sweetness, with just enough thickness to hint at its sugar content. As a dessert wine, it was everything it needed to be—simple, honest, and utterly enjoyable.

Interestingly, the connection between Commandaria and Cleopatra wasn’t a big talking point in Cyprus itself. While it’s an intriguing bit of history, it seems the locals don’t see it as a major selling point for tourists. Still, as we sipped that amber nectar, steeped in centuries of tradition, it was hard not to imagine Cleopatra herself indulging in a glass—or perhaps two—of this ancient wine.

This wine is crafted from two native Cypriot grape varieties: Mavro and Xynisteri. Only the ripest grapes—those bursting with sugar, often just past their peak—are selected for the process. Once harvested, the grapes are left to bask in the sun for one to two weeks, concentrating their natural sweetness even further. The magic doesn’t stop there; the grapes are then slowly fermented over two to three months before being aged in oak barrels for a minimum of two years, allowing their flavours to develop into something truly remarkable.

Cyprus itself is a treasure of unspoiled towns, abundant natural beauty, and a history that feels alive in its landscape. While the island’s modern reality is complicated by its north-south division, it is undeniably a place steeped in culture and intrigue—a Mediterranean gem that has secured its spot on my personal list of must-visit destinations.

I can already picture it: a warm evening on the island, a glass of Commandaria wine in hand. In that moment, I’d let the spirit of the island transport me, imagining myself as Cleopatra savouring the finer things or Richard the Lionheart reflecting on his conquests. This wine, with its honeyed hues and rich history, invites such flights of fancy. It’s not just a drink; it’s an experience, a doorway to another time and place.